Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We're not quite at the stage where the BR05 is considered THE Bell & Ross - there's still a long way to go before it replaces the classic boxy silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models - but it feels mature enough to be considered more than just is another brand jumping on the trend of integrated bracelet sports watches. It's been less than four years since the first BR05 variant arrived, and in that time we've seen three-handers, a chronograph and a GMT. Stainless steel watch with sandblasted finish and "Artline" finish. Available in rose gold and two-tone case. Dials are available in black, white, copper, green and blue. And don't forget the Kenissi-powered BR-X5, which also evolved from the same shell.
As I browse through the BR05 catalog, past and present, two thoughts strike me. First off, there are a lot of different watches in this line. It's not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and redesign a flagship model, but even considering the considerable number of limited editions, the number of releases since its debut in 2019 is still a lot. This leads to my second thought. Why haven't I found one I really like, despite always being impressed by the overall aesthetics, case design and finish? Finding my own answer required me to try and categorize what type of watch the BR05 actually is.
For me, the BR05 crosses several lines. It's as sporty as any luxury watch with an integrated bracelet, but it's not instrumental at all. The BR03's ceramic-black, ungainly casing aptly demonstrates the BR05's deficiencies in this regard. Despite the sporty claims, with clear polished bezels and a fairly hefty price tag, you probably wouldn't choose to wear a watch like this for aggressive or rugged adventures. On the contrary, the BR05 is arguably beautiful, and quite gorgeous when equipped with an integrated bracelet. Not pretty enough, but not at home with a suit and tie. I find the watch still too bulky, and the area of the metal is too large. I can only conclude that the Bell & Ross BR05 is a fun casual watch. Not delicate. not difficult. Not elegant. Not utilitarian.
Having established this, if I were to own a BR05, I'd want a fun one. The new Skeleton Golden may be just that. Do not confuse this model with the Skeleton Gold. The watch I'm looking at still has the skeletonized dial and a hint of gold, but reining in the luxury to a more acceptable level. In fact, the only "golden" part is the tinted transparent dial. The movement we were teased about was the automatic BR-CAL. 322, which was rhodium-plated and skeletonized to reveal a lot but remain unobtrusive at the same time. Behind the lower half of the dial is the mainspring, while the balance wheel swings in the upper half. The bridgework conceals much of the rest of the movement, as does the gold tone.
Like the other models in the BR05 collection, the 40mm case combines vertical brushed flats and polished corners for a beautiful finish. The rounded corners continue to the first central link of the crown guard and lugs. While this particular watch comes with a brown rubber strap instead of the optional integrated bracelet, the first central link remains, which helps ease the transition from case to strap. The back of the display case reveals that the movement itself is not gold or plated, as is the front, which is partially obscured—in this case, by the beautifully shaped 360-degree rotor.
My personal preference is to wear the watch on the original bracelet when it can be used, and this is especially true for watches designed with integration options in mind. Meanwhile, every time I try on the Bell & Ross BR05, it's on the bracelet. I can't complain about its construction. The quality of the bracelet finish is very good, but never quite as comfortable on the wrist as I would like. This is the first time I've worn the BR05 on a rubber strap, and it's a completely different experience. Weight loss is an immediate positive. Having this more flexible strap option helps the watch stay in one place, also closer to the wrist. The BR05 is only 10.3mm thick, but feels slimmer on the rubber than on the bracelet. Of course it's all personal preference
The combination of comfort, quality, and slight quirks make this watch just right for me on multiple levels. Skeleton Golden finally feels like the watch the BR05 should be. For what I'm starting to describe as a "fun, casual watch", there are plenty of other watches that can rival this Bell & Ross. Convincing someone that it represents great value is going to be a difficult task. But at the end of the day, it's not just about value. It's also about enjoyment. I thoroughly enjoyed my time with this person. Bell & Ross.